Chef, food writer and author Olia Hercules grew up in Ukraine, then Cyprus, before a stint working in restaurants in Sicily inspired her career in food. Here, she shares her memories and her recipe for potato and courgette ragu
I remember these mad, long summers growing up in Ukraine. It would start getting hot in April, when people move into their summer kitchens outside. Some of my first memories are of waking up and going there and finding this dish called “sous”, or “sauce”, that my mother would have left for me and my brother to eat. It’s basically just potatoes cooked in a big, heavy pot with courgettes or marrow, with sour cream and loads of dill. I loved it cold for breakfast.
We grew strawberries and raspberries and in September we’d start making pickles and jams for the winter. When Mum boiled the fruit with sugar, all the foam would come up. Here we call it scum and get rid of it, but it’s just flavoured air, almost like a gastronomic foam, and mum would pick it off the top of the pan and put it in a cup for us. We’d sit there eating raspberry bubbles.
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